
Sam Calagione, left, chews on some of the purple corn. And then spits it out (via Ryan Collerd for The New York Times).
You have to hand it to Dogfish Head Brewing and founder Sam Calagione for making Dogfish Head one of the most adventurous breweries in the nation, if not the world. Featuring other-worldly beers like Pangaea, featuring ingredients from every continent on earth, to Chateau Jiahu, a brew modeled after a 9,000 year old libation from China, Dogfish Head isn’t in the business of tossing out an IPA, a pale, and an occasional stout. They’re the leaders in neo-beer.
I’ve been lucky enough to try a few of their stranger brews, and have some fairly opinionated views on each (120 Minute IPA: A super-thick, super-hoppy, “beer” that I fought to finish even a few sips of before feeling like I downed a pint of syrup; Palo Santo Marron: A delightful, malty brew that straddles the line between beer and wine with its use of Paraguayan Palo Santo wood) and no matter my thoughts, I appreciate Calagione’s thoughtfulness and attention to detail.
Now there’s this:
We have now made what we believe is one our most exotic and unique beer yet. Chicha is the quintessential native corn beer throughout Central and South American. Indigenous versions with local variations exist in Chile, Bolivia, Columbia and many other countries.
And, OK, that doesn’t sound too bizarre for Dogfish Head. Maybe even one of their more reserved beers, huh? Wrong:

Street musicians from Peru, Chile, Ecuador, and Japan sample the Chicha beer in Times Square (via Librado Romero/The New York Times).
The most exotic and unique component of this project, from the perspective of the American beer drinker, happens before the beer is even brewed. As per tradition, instead of germinating all of the grain to release the starches, the purple maize is milled, moistened in the chicha-makers mouths (which we did right here three weeks ago in our Rehoboth brewery), and formed into small cakes which are flattened and laid out to dry. The natural ptyalin enzymes in the saliva act as a catalyst and break the starches into more accessible fermentable sugars. On brewday the muko, or corn cakes, are added to the mash tun pre-boil along with the other grains. This method might sound strange but it is still used regularly today throughout villages in South and Central America. It is actually quite effective and totally sanitary. Since the grain-chewing (known as salivation) happens before the beer is boiled the beer is sterile and free of the wild yeast and bacteria you would find in modern Belgian Lambics.
So there’s spit. In the beer. Kind of. The New York Times reporter Joyce Wadler was on hand to watch the chewing and spitting process and gives a pretty great firsthand look at the whole thing. What’s most interesting about the article to me is that it shows how closely connected to homebrewing even a major operation like Dogfish Head really is. One man sitting in his basement with a bunch of college friends really isn’t all that far from making innovative and imaginative libations. Of course, knowledge and experience and a whole lot of luck is needed in this process, but I do think it’s interesting to see a man and a brewery putting out fantastic beer with such imagination, all while doing it like it’s just a hobby for an afternoon.

Palo Santo Marron in all its glory.
This Chicha beer will be only available at the brewery itself, so you’ll have to get yourself over to Delaware to give this guy a try, but I would always suggest that people try to get their hands on any of the other Dogfish beers just for the experience. No, you may not always like what you’re getting. Yes, you might be drinking a beer that’s essentially regurgitated purple corn, but it’s this kind of innovation that continues to push the envelope of beer production. Whenever you start to think that beer has reached its peak, take a glance at the workings of Mr. Calagione. Chances are, you haven’t seen anything yet.
Hit the jump for a video of the making of Chicha from Dogfish, as well as some other great videos from the brewery. They’re well worth a look.
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