Stay out of my beer. Thanks.
The Atlantic’s food section has a good look at one of the more bizarre beer styles that I can really think of: oyster stouts. A few months ago, I gave my thoughts on the subject where I pretty much panned the style since I hate oysters. Have my thoughts changed? No. Am I still interested in trying an oyster stout? Well, maybe. Clay Risen tried three that are on the market (Harpoon’s Island Creek, Flying Fish’s Exit 1, and Porterhouse Brewing Co.’s Oyster Stout), and came back with some mixed results.
Oyster stouts are exactly what they sound like: brewers shuck in five or six bivalves per barrel during the brewing process. By the time the beer is done, the oysters have completely dissolved, leaving behind just the faintest hint of salinity. Beware, though: Some brewers, like Marston’s, don’t actually use oysters in their oyster stouts; the name is simply to suggest an appropriate accompaniment. Still others, like Massachusetts’s Cape Ann Brewing, will use shells, but not the oysters themselves, to balance the mineral content of their water.
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And about that beer: While the Harpoon and Porterhouse are both dry, even astringent, Irish stouts, the Flying Fish is a creamy British export stout, with about twice the alcohol content of the other two. Its milk chocolate and roasted flavors are much better complements to the subtle saltiness of the oysters than the bitter chocolate and tobacco flavors I got from the Porterhouse and Harpoon. I found the Porterhouse thin and excessively briny, while the Harpoon was bland with a finish of old coffee grounds. Neither was particularly bad, but neither was anything I’ll look for again.
Not exactly a rave review of oyster stouts, but it’s still a developing genre. Has anyone out there tried any of the offerings, and what do you think? Anyone thinking of dabbling in the art of brewing an oyster stout on their own? How about Crab Leg Kolsch, or Lobster Lager? Not saying I’ll drink them, but go for it.
Founders Brewing Company in Grand Rapids, MI
Sierra Nevada Brewing Company in Chico, California
I typically try to save this post until Thursday, but this week there is something so awesomely special going on that I just couldn’t wait. Plus I figured I would give you all some advance notice so you can start thinking of ways to duck out of the office at 2pm this Thursday. The Blackfoot River Tap Room will be showing off its last firkin of Cask-Conditioned Bourbon Barrel Aged Stout! The last one they had was at the Cool Dog Ball and won Best in Show. If you missed it last time, make sure to make it down this week because this brew is heavenly. Seriously, screw ambrosia, this is the beverage of the gods. Get there early because it will go fast!
Oskar Blues Brewery in Lyons, CO
The Brooklyn Brewery in Brooklyn, NY
Bell’s Brewing Company in Kalamazoo, MI
Founders Brewing Company in Grand Rapids, MI
Bell’s Brewery in Kalamazoo, MI
