The Story of A Beer Father

August 25th, 2010

The Washington Post has a nice quick read about one of the true founding fathers of the craft beer movement, Jack McAuliffe. McAuliffe started his own brewery in 1976 in an effort to recreate the beers he tasted in Scotland while stationed there in the Navy. However, as often was the case with microbreweries pre-1980, McAuliffe’s brewery closed. But enter Ken Grossman, master brewer from Sierra Nevada.

To celebrate 30 years of brewing, Grossman coaxed McAuliffe (now in his 60s and living in San Antonio) out of retirement to collaborate on a limited-edition anniversary brew.

Brew day was May 25. “I hadn’t seen him in 25 years at least,” Grossman said about McAuliffe, who he said had been in an automobile accident the previous year and had lost the use of one arm. “Mainly he supervised and sampled.”

Jack and Ken’s Black Barleywine Ale recently debuted in 25.4-ounce corked bottles. A deep mahogany color with a ruby glint, the heady brew has a sweet, almost sugary taste up front, giving way to a bittersweet chocolate flavor mid-palate and a hoppy, slightly floral finish.

I’ve seen the Jack and Ken’s Black Barleywine out in stores recently and I’ve scoffed at the higher price and the lack of the memory I have from tasting the Fritz and Ken’s Stout. However, after reading this great profile, I think I’ll have to grab a bottle of the barleywine. Not often do you get such a great back story on the beer you’re drinking. Plus, this beer was a joint effort between two of the legends in craft beer, featuring one you’ve never even heard about.

The story really is worth the read, and Jack McAuliffe even gives advice to all aspiring homebrewers.

“Your skill set is extremely important,” he stresses. Ideally, it should encompass disciplines as varied as metallurgy and accounting. “You have to be interested in microbiology, to know your way around a laboratory. You have to know how a sewer system works.”

Well-read sewer technicians, take note.

The Washington Post — A founding father returns to the fore

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Jimmy Carter, Semantics, and Homebrews (Now with UPDATES)

August 20th, 2010

In yesterday’s Atlantic, a reader took quite a bit of time to call out writer Erik Kain’s article from Balloon Juice about the rise of the microbrewing industry and its connection to Jimmy Carter. As you may remember, I posted a graph from that article about the enormous spike after Carter supposedly deregulated the beer industry. Well, an Atlantic reader definitely doesn’t see it that way. Not one bit.

While I have immense admiration for President Carter, and would love to see him get the credit he deserves for all sorts of things (and who knows; now that Obama has officially supplanted him as History’s Greatest Monster, maybe he will), but E. D. Kain’s claim that Carter “deregulated the beer industry” (in Kain’s words) is grossly inaccurate. What Carter did sign was HR 1337, which legalized homebrewing “for personal or family use, and not for sale”–’deregulating’ individual, not commercial, behavior. The legalization of homebrewing did contribute to the growth of the craft beer industry (according to Charlie Papazian, 90% of the pioneer craft brewers started out making homebrew), so President Carter certainly deserves credit for that…but it just as certainly isn’t “beer industry” deregulation.

IMO, the step that really touched off the craft beer explosion was the legalization of brewpubs in various states–WA and CA in 1982, OR in 1983, with others following shortly thereafter. This is consistent with the graph, which shows a leap in numbers from 1979 to 1989 (meaning the growth could have started at any point during that decade); according to the American Brewers Association, the low point was 1982, meaning the turnaround actually began in 1983 (not 1979). Also: of the 1500 breweries in existence today, 2/3 are or began as brewpubs.

OK, good point. Sort of. Except for the fact that, you know, homebrewing almost always leads to the best microbreweries, much as reader Tom Hilton notes above. I was set to write a lengthy counterargument about why Hilton wasn’t much brighter than a stick, but sadly, Erik Kain responded before I got to, and essentially hammers my point home.

In the pre-Carter days there was little or no access to home brewing supplies, very little knowledge base for do-it-yourselfers to draw from, and far less experimentation with home brewing, making it effectively impossible to gain entry to the beer market for non-corporate brewers. Carter’s deregulation essentially stripped away all these barriers to entry, making it possible for a number of people who would otherwise not have entered the market to do so. Did deregulation of brewpubs also help lead to the craft beer explosion? Certainly. But as your reader notes, 90% of craft beers began as home brews. Without Carter’s deregulation, the brewpubs themselves would never have taken off. 90% of the craft brews we now have would never have existed. Even if this didn’t allow home brewers to directly sell their beer in the wider market, it allowed them to gain the skills and information necessary to do so.

Wooo, yeah! Suck on that, Hilton! All in all, this is kind of a funny Internet argument, and even more interesting than most YOU’RE AN IDIOT! NUH-UH YOU ARE! that floats around, so I like seeing a lively debate about craft beer and presidents. And not ones that involve beer summits.

So what do you think? Did Carter spearhead the craft brewery movement, or was he just given special acknowledgment for being President during a time where microbreweries spiked in popularity?

The AtlanticJimmy Carter: Not the King of Beers?

UPDATE AFTER THE JUMP

Read the rest of this entry »

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So Maybe Jimmy Carter Was a Great President After All

August 6th, 2010

Poor Jimmy Carter gets a lot of flack for being one of the worst presidents in history. But yesterday was International Beer Day (damn, now I’ll have to find one of those Happy Belated International Beer Day cards at Hallmark to send out), and as this wonderful graph shows, Jimmy Carter was actually a spearhead in the craft brew renaissance.

If you’re a fan of craft beer and microbreweries as opposed to say Bud Light or Coors, you should say a little thank you to Jimmy Carter. Carter could very well be the hero of International Beer Day.

To make a long story short, prohibition led to the dismantling of many small breweries around the nation. When prohibition was lifted, government tightly regulated the market, and small scale producers were essentially shut out of the beer market altogether. Regulations imposed at the time greatly benefited the large beer makers. In 1979, Carter deregulated the beer industry, opening the market back up to craft brewers.

So we should probably all take a bit of time to reevaluate our feelings toward Mr. Carter and dedicate a pint toward him this weekend. Or at least spend a few minutes beefing up his Wikipedia page about his accomplishments in beer. That’s what the cool kids do these days.

Balloon Juice — International Beer Day

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The Perfect College Course

January 9th, 2010

Charles Bamforth

University of California, Davis is now offering a full course on the history of beer and brewing. The best part: no final exams! The class is not really a class at all, it is more of a series of audio lectures by Charles Bamforth, head of the Brewing Science Program at UC Davis. The whole set, entitled “Brewmaster’s Art: The History and Science of Beermaking,” is 14 lectures of about 35 minutes a piece, each titled for quick reference and available for sale from Modern Scholar.

“This audio series is intended for everyone from the casual beer enthusiast to brewing professionals,” said Bamforth, the Anheuser-Busch Endowed Professor of Malting and Brewing Sciences at UC Davis. “It offers listeners the opportunity to increase their knowledge of the history and science of beer brewing at their own pace from their homes or offices.”

If only this course had been offered where I was in school.

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What Would Santa Drink?

December 21st, 2009

santa_beerOK, I know we’re getting a little post heavy on the Santa and the Christmas and the ho ho ho, but deal with it–it’s Christmas time for God’s sake. You know, the time to celebrate America’s love for overabundance and electricity and lights and trees in houses and presents and good freakin’ beer. Oh, and Jesus being born. That’s probably involved somehow, too.

Anyway, despite some of the stranger posts we’ve had lately, today’s article from Joe Sixpack (how I wish this was a real name) explores the historical connection between Santa, a/k/a St. Nicholas, f/k/a The Big Guy in Red and beer. Not just by the beers Santa has named after him, but historically. And Santa’s had quite a journey.

In fact, from the very beginning, Santa Claus was a man of drink.

His alter ego is Nicholas of Myra, a fourth-century Turkish do-gooder who was venerated as St. Nicholas, the ancient patron of assorted riffraff, including prostitutes, lawyers and, yes, brewers.

St. Nick eventually morphed into Santa Claus, the fat, jolly, pipe-smoking elf popularized by Clement Moore’s “A Visit from St. Nicholas.” Shortly after Thomas Nast illustrated Santa’s image for Harpers Weekly in 1863, advertisers began using him to shill everything, from shoes to cigars to, yes, suds.

bud_santaIn 1900, one magazine advertisement proclaimed, “Wherever children look for Santa Claus, Schlitz beer is known as the standard.” Around the same time, Consumers Brewing assured drinkers in newspaper ads that, while “Santa Claus himself is reluctant to give away our beer . . . we have plenty to go ’round.”

And so it went, from the Clydesdales pulling a sleigh full of Budweiser to Spuds Mackenzie dressed in a red Santa suit.

The article also goes on to describe some of the troubles Santa’s had with his image connected to beer during prohibition, and whether certain groups think it’s responsible for a man so loved by young children to be a borderline beer snob.

Joe also talks about trying to get a hold of real Santa and asking him what he’d drink this time of year. I think Santa’s answer is a good one.

“Like we say at the North Pole,” he replied when I asked his favorite. “I’m making a list.”

Check out the article here. It really is a great read and the historical connections between the Big Red Guy and beer are rather strong. Happy drinking, Santa.

(Via Philly.com)

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