Beer Review: Jolly Pumpkin Oro de Calabaza

September 14th, 2010

I hope I'm not rushing into things too quickly here. (Photo via MK Heisler)

Jolly Pumpkin Artisan Ales in Dexter, MI

A new love is brewing. And I’m afraid it’s going to tear a friendship apart.

Gary waxed poetic not long ago about his fascination with the sour ale giants in Dexter, MI, Jolly Pumpkin Artisan Ales. I’d always been fascinated with their beers, but had only a brief time to sample their selections when I was still living in Michigan. The brewery was just starting to explode as I left the state, and my mind had still not been made up about these funky and sour beers that certainly didn’t taste like regular amber ales or stouts. A trip back to Ann Arbor for New Year’s tossed me into their new brewhouse downtown where I got my hands on a few of these other hard-to-come-by ales, but the jury was still out.

But here JP and I are again, finding ourselves in the same city, seeing each other at the same bars, and occasionally running into each other at our favorite stores. We chat a little bit, flirt, and decide to go out for drinks. I try to tell Gary, but I know it will hurt him right now since he’s on a brief hiatus in Arkansas, so I keep it short. I tell him we’re just friends. That’s all.

But, Gary, this is bad news, but I’m in love with Oro de Calabaza, and I’m afraid others might be, too.

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Beer Review: Founders Nemesis 2010

September 10th, 2010

I'm sorry, but I think we're just friends now. I might be open to a relationship in a few months. Will that work?

Founders Brewing Company in Grand Rapids, MI

How important is aging? I’m not asking this in an NBC special sort of way or in an attention-grabbing headline in the style of the Huffington Post or the Drudge Report. Rather, I’m asking this when it comes to beer.

I understand that brewers these days are making more and more brews that are meant to be preserved and held onto for as little as a few months and for as long as a few decades. I get this. The beer changes over time. Different flavors appear as fermentation continues. But with the proliferation of so many of these beers on the market, I’m having a hard time choosing which ones I want to open immediately like Christmas presents and which ones I need to put away in my tiny closet and attempt to not drink for the next few months. Should these beers that can be aged for quite some time actually be aged, or should they be drinkable right out of the bottle? Or should they be real firecrackers right on the day or bottling, only to become truly perfect gems after sitting in your beer cellar (*cough closet cough) for a number of years?

I only bring this up because of how much I actually enjoy the Founders Nemesis 2010 edition, a black IPA/barleywine hybrid. It’s a special beer that is released only once. Founders even notes that this can be a rather experimental beer. And I’m quite OK with all of this. I only have to think how much better this beer could be if it sat around for a few years. Then what would we have?

Part of the reason I have trouble with hanging onto beer is not only the space issue, but the temperature issue. I know you’re supposed to keep them at cooler temps at all times, but I can’t say I have a big enough fridge or a dedicated beer fridge yet in my apartment to make this happen. I don’t even know if having them stored at 70 degrees makes that much of a difference, but I feel like if I keep a beer around for so long, I should keep it in ideal conditions.

The other reason I have trouble with holding onto beers is, well… most of the special bottles I pick up look awfully fucking delicious. Black IPA and barleywine? This is why I couldn’t hang onto Nemesis 2010 for more than a few days. The color on it was as magnificent as any of my other Founders lovers, a dark and very rich brown with a gorgeous chocolate-cream head just barely sitting on top of the snifter when it was swirled around. The smell was thick with molasses and a rather boozy, almost bourbon-like, scent. The beer looked quite syrupy, more so than expected, and the first taste confirmed that immediately. A heavy and thick curtain of really dry and earthy malt kicks in immediately with just the slightest background of a barleywine’s sweetness. The malt really hangs on the tongue for generations, and adds a bit of smokiness that mixes with a hop tickle near the absolute end. I really waited for the barleywine’s scene, but somewhere along the editing process, it hit the cutting room floor. I had a hard time finding any real sweetness or a blast of alcohol (especially considering the 12% ABV), and even the high IBU level left me a little disappointed. The warmer it got, the less sweet it became. Not exactly a knock-out punch.

What I’m trying to get at is this is a very good black IPA. The flavors here are thicker and richer than many others I’ve had. But I’m missing the barleywine crunch. I would assume that if this bad boy hung out for quite a few more months or years, this would develop into a deep and succulent beer with more layers than an onion. As is, drink it for the great black IPA qualities, but save it for the feast of flavors that will surely come later.

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Beer Review: New Holland El Mole Ocho

September 9th, 2010

Go Away. Please, just go away.

New Holland Brewing Company in Holland, MI

You’re walking down Columbia. It’s not too late yet. We’re just into September. You remember that Septembers signal the beginnings of college football and the smell of drying leaves against a backdrop of cool nights where you can have your car window down almost all the way on your drive home. But it can get chilly late, late at night, at times when you’re out. But September in the East isn’t like that. September is still swampy–thick and sticky, like swimming in a pool of creamed corn that’s been on the oven for way too long. You’re walking, though, anyway, and you notice a man coming towards you. You don’t know him, so you ignore him, and he passes by you on the street. It’s still too hot, and the sun is just barely going to bed on the horizon, but you can’t see it. You only see this man, now right behind you, asking you, “Have you ever been to Mexico?” You say you haven’t been. From there, things go downhill. He invites you to walk with him, and he hands you an El Mole Ocho beer from New Holland Brewing.

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Beer Review: Ommegang Bière de Mars

September 1st, 2010

Sour. But not in the good way. (Photo via MK Heisler)

For all the hubbub surrounding Brewery Ommegang, I’m quite surprised that this is the first time I’ll be addressing any beer from the New York rarity. If you’re unfamiliar with the place, they specialize in bringing true, Belgian style ales to the United States. Sure, a few American breweries will toss out a tripel or a Belgian style IPA occasionally, but Ommegang only specializes in Belgians. I’ve said for quite sometime now that I’m not the biggest fan of Belgian style beers. I can find them a bit too fruity or boozy for my liking, and I’m often nonplussed by the massive presence of Belgians at local bars that couldn’t give a shit about quality beer. So I guess what I’m saying is: This is why I’ve avoided beer from Ommegang like the plague. But things are changing. I may be getting spoiled, but I’m tiring of the standard stouts and IPAs in great quantity here, so I’m trying  to branch out. Surely there are Belgians worthy of my verbosity, and maybe Ommegang could take me to the dark side. My current forays into sour ales from Jolly Pumpkin and others brought me to a perfect outlier on my beer screen: the Ommegang Bière de Mars, a Belgian amber with the famous Brettanomyces bruxellensis, a wild yeast known for adding a sour touch to brews.

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Beer Review: Schlafly Pumpkin Ale

August 31st, 2010

Thanksgiving in August? All right. (Photo via MK Heisler)

Saint Louis Brewery in St. Louis, MO

Holy hell there are some terrible pumpkin beers on the market. I’ve always known pumpkin was a perfect compliment for a great beer, with the hints of nutmeg, cinnamon, and other fall spices. For me, those could translate over to so many different beer styles–IPA, pale ale, strong ale, whatever. But little did I know a whole genre of pumpkin ales was brewing on its own. I thought a few breweries probably dabbled in this realm, and when I first started my craft beer life, I remember finding something called Jack’s Pumpkin Spice Ale and knowing it would be fantastic. Wrong. Terrible. But not completely unsurprising considering it was one of the dreadful Anheuser-Busch macros in a micros clothing. I was betrayed! I tried a few other pumpkin beers and was always disappointed. Maybe a brewery couldn’t pull off a good pumpkin ale, or maybe what I was imagining just didn’t exist. With the recent influx of fall beers into the D.C. area (which, seriously, college football hasn’t even started yet and we’re already seeing Oktoberfests and pumpkins? I’m still not sure how I feel about that), pumpkins are everywhere. I took one final stab in the dark at the Schlafly Pumpkin Ale and hoped for the best.

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Beer Review: Avery Out of Bounds Stout

August 30th, 2010

Maybe if I drink enough of these I can pretend I'm skiing.

Avery Brewing Company in Boulder, CO

The hardest thing I have to live without on the East Coast is skiing. Though it’s been at least four years since I last found myself on a mountain, I really miss those early Saturday mornings filled with McDonald’s breakfast and a cramped red truck chugging its way toward the top of the local ski area as the temps outside dipped as low as -20. Those were great days, especially when you found great powder or a day when you skied a trail perfectly or tried a new trick you’d never accomplished before. Those days were a little bit before my drinking days, and definitely before my days of stout love, but seeing a bottle like Avery’s Out of Bounds Stout, with the skier on the front and the ski dictionary name-dropping in the title just makes a man want to fly out to Boulder right now and wait for the first major snow dump of the year. And the skiing might not even be the best part. The best part would be knowing that you could find Out of Bounds Stout on tap all over Boulder no matter the time of year. That would be quite enjoyable. But with a place like the Brickskeller, there really isn’t any reason to leave the bottled beer mecca of the US.

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Beer Review: 60 Minute IPA

August 26th, 2010

"Have we met?" "No." "I think you're right."

Dogfish Head Craft Brewery in Milton, DE

You know the guy that’s always sitting at the bar? You know, the bar you always go to after work or at least once a weekend? He never sits at a table. He always seems to find a seat at the bar no matter how many people are there. You’ve never seen him arrive, and you’ve never watched him leave. Somehow, though, he will always have a seat, and he will always draw a crowd around him. He’s always cool-headed and doesn’t do anything too exciting and doesn’t go out of his way to start a scene, nor does he go out of his way to do any grand gestures for the other bar-goers. But there he is. Every time you go to the bar, he is there. He’s a guy you’ve thought of talking to numerous times, but you always decide to go another route, just barely making eye contact, just enough to know you’re there. But he notices you, too. He knows you’re at the bar. And he wants to talk to you. What do you do? Well, you sit next to him in that one empty bar stool at the oak-lined bar that hits you in the face with a scent of bleach and thick malt. You sit down. He orders you a 60 Minute IPA from Dogfish Head, a beer you’ve had dozens of times, and you sit, and you listen.

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Beer Review: Lake Erie Monster

August 24th, 2010

Truly a beast.

Great Lakes Brewing Company in Cleveland, OH

Say what you want about Cleveland, OH (and believe me, a lot of it has been and will be said), but the Great Lakes Brewing Company is one of the best breweries in the country. Which makes it a shame that it has to reside in a city that gets such flack and also must be related to Ohio State in some way. Regardless, Great Lakes does not make a beer that is worth passing over. And undoubtedly, some of their consistent stunners are their IPAs. From their Commodore Perry to the Lake Erie Monster, Great Lakes knows how to produce a powerfully hoppy beer with wonderfully well-rounded characteristics. So whenever I’m lucky enough to find the Lake Erie Monster hanging around the shelves even after being released a few months ago, I have no problem with immediately jumping on a beer that packs a wallop at over 9% ABV, but remains incredibly drinkable no matter the temperature outside or the state the beer happens to be from. Have I mentioned yet that I hate Ohio?

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Beer Review: Oliver’s ESB (Cask)

August 24th, 2010

Look, I'm just not that into you.

Pratt Street Ale House in Baltimore, MD

I’m starting to worry about my relationship with cask ales. Once a rare commodity that was worth immediately jumping to and consuming, these cask ales are starting to leave me a little bit high and dry on weekends. You know, sometimes I just want to stay in and enjoy a thick and flavorful pint on weekends, but no. You, cask ales, have to go off and have a lame night filled with nothing and you insist on towing me along for the ride. Well, I’m getting to the point where I can’t take it anymore, cask. It’s getting to be too much for me. What used to be a kind and loving relationship has turned flat and dull. I just can’t tolerate you the way I used to. In the past, whenever I’d see you arrive at the bar, I would approach with a smile and you’d kindly greet me in a long and slender outfit, wearing just the right color. And none of that has changed. But you can’t be all appearances, you know? I need substance along with sex appeal, and to be honest, cask ales, you’re just not cutting it. And my final straw may have come when you showed up as an Oliver’s ESB.

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Beer Review: Big Bohemian Pilsner

August 19th, 2010

Harpoon Brewery in Boston, MA

I may be a government bureaucrat by day, but I’m really a wild and crazy person. Sometimes I ride my bike to faraway places like Virginia. Sometimes I play my music so loud I think my neighbors could hear it if they pressed their ears to the wall. And sometimes I try new things (within reason, obviously).

It's decent.

This week’s new thing was a four-pack from Harpoon’s Leviathan series, a group of “big” beers that are supposed to remind you that Harpoon is a decent craft brewery, not a commercial house of boring-ness.

But because I’m so unpredictably wild, there’s a twist. When I tried to grab the Imperial Red Ale off the shelf at Whole Foods, I accidentally grabbed the Big Bohemian Pilsner instead.

Bad mistake.

Unlike the discovery of penicillin, this was not one of those mishaps that was actually a discovery in disguise. Turns out, a pilsner doesn’t retain many of the crisp, floral characteristics that define the style if you double the ingredients to pump up the ABV. Instead, it just tastes like a sweet, over-malty beer someone should have tasted before bottling — that way the person could maybe salvage the beer with some aggressive dry-hopping. (I’d volunteer for the job, but I already have a perfectly mundane job I like. Matt might be interested, though.)

To be fair, Harpoon’s Big Bohemian Pilsner isn’t awful. It’s decent, and at 9 percent ABV, it was certainly worth the $10 I paid for it.

In retrospect, though, maybe I should have used my $10 to buy something boring but familiar.

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